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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| Author | Post | ||
| Jonathan G |
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  Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1128 | I had noticed that a lot of tillers pivoted vertically either for storage when the rudder was removed or for easier access to the boat. Although I didn't plan on mine being functional, I wanted it to look like it could move. This required two short pieces to be added to the tiller post. The tiller itself was carved with a slight S-curve. | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1128 | After the pieces were assembled, the basswood parts were stained with Early American and I added paper hinges colored black with a Sharpie pen. Because where the rudder post edge and the rudder edge meet are rounded, it made for a poor mechanical glue point. I added a couple of pins for a strong joint. | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1128 | The final ship’s boat build is shown   | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1128 | Here is what it looks like on the Rattlesnake (prior to permanently lashing it down)   | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1128 | FINAL THOUGHTS Here are some final thoughts based on a question I received from another builder: Great build log. I am using it to try and get back into modeling and have a question for you. You added some wood to "form 1" instead of trusting the plan. Did you regret that or do you still recommend I do the same. I ask because I see that you had some problem with the forward Bow bulkhead after the planking was done and you used wood to fill in around it before applying the veneer. If you were doing it over, what would you do with "form 1"? Thanks This was my first small boat build, as well as my first upside down build, and my first Plank on Frame build, so I was learning as I was going. The problem with the kit was that it was a $5 kit (on sale from $8). The Kit instructions stated that the keel was made of airplane plywood - it wasn't. It was basswood, the plywood would have been much stronger. The ribs on the jig had to be bent to form, I would have preferred that they had been cut to shape and there were all of ribs at the beginning and not stuck on later. That would have provided the planking strips with more support and insured proper shape. I would have preferred boxwood which is hard wood instead of the soft basswood. Another builder on the same model started over and replaced all the wood with boxwood and pear. Neither one of us planned to paint the boat. When I went to create the top cap, I realized that my bow stuck out further on the stem than the plans showed. I thought I was following the plans meticulously, but because the plan's pictures were of such low resolution, you couldn't see the detail in the bow clear enough. As a result, my bow bulkhead ended up too small for what I built - my bow should have curved more tightly to the stem and then the bulkhead would of fit (I assume). Although this is a small, "simple" model, I would not call it a first timer's model for it requires some boat building experience. If I had to build it again, and I could because the plan shows all the parts to scale, I'd cut the ribs to shape, which I find much easier than to bend, and add more of them to the jig. The hard part would be to create the additional ribs where the hull curves toward the bow. Not sure how I would determine the correct shape for the ribs there. That would ensure the bow bulkhead fits. By the way, the other builder I mentioned ran into the same problem with that bulkhead. That all being said, it was a fun build and a good learning experience. I hope I answered your question and I wish you the best in your endeavor. Jon | ||
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| Raymond Deliz |
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  Registered Member #4329 Joined: Thu Dec 12 2013, 06:21pmPosts: 383 | Jon, It has been a pleasure following along with this build and 100% kudos to you Sir. Had I tried it, it would have been disasterous. | ||
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| Gary M |
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| Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 904 | Jonathan, your ships boat is fantastic and a great compliment to your Rattler. What's next? I have made all the masts and yards, but am still challenged by the rigging scale. Not sure if what is in the practicum is correct. The rigging looks too large for my eye. I need to sit down with the rigging calculator and study the problem. At any rate, I look forward to your next installment. Gary | ||
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| aew |
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aew  Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 2983 | Very nice little model and a great match with the mother ship. I'm glad you managed to move the rowlocks OK. | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1128 | I'm working on the oars so stay tuned | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1128 | Boat Oars What is a boat without oars? The kit was for the boat only; any accessories, you were on tour own. I based the oars for this boat on The Art Making Masts, Yards, Gaffs, Booms, Blocks and Oars as Practiced in the Royal Navy and According to the Most Approved Methods in the Merchant Service, 2nd edition, printed for Steel and Goddard, London, 1816. It’s English Royal Navy and published later than the Rattlesnake 1781 commission date, but it was the best reference I had. I’m guessing that any differences between an English boat oar and an earlier American boat oar would be minor and not too noticeable at this scale (I hope).  | ||
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