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| USS Peacock POF 1:48 - Scratch | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew, bikepunk
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| Author | Post | ||
| Gary M |
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 Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 909 | Hi All, I am thinking of lofting the frames to the USS Peacock as my next drafting project. Crissman did a great job of comparing and contrasting it with the Eagle in his disertation. I though it would make a great vessel to put next to my Eagle. I could then show the differences between lake and ocean going vessels of the period. Does anyone have any insight or personal experience building the Peacock? I know there are some plans available through the Smithsonian. I also saw a few nice models of the Peacock on various websites. I welcome your thoughts here. Thanks, G [ Edited Thu May 22 2014, 04:34pm ] | ||
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| Gary M |
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| Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 909 | My Goals This will be my third lofting project. I am constructing the Eagle now from the plans that I lofted and just finished lofting the frames for the Essex. I am by no means an expert, so any advice offered will be readily accepted as constructive feedback. My goal is to eventually move into computerized lofting of frames. For this build, I plan to make an admiralty style model and hope to lay the keel in the next year. But must first finish my Rattlesnake rigging and get further along on my Eagle. And, did I mention my Essex... Please see my other build logs on this site. This all being said, here we go. Plans The framing plan for this forum, the US Sloop Peacock of 1813 (not to be confused with the HMS Peacock or the Rebuilt USS Peacock of 1828) will closely follow the methods as outlined by Gene Bodnar in his US Brig Eagle Practicum on this website. I will touch on many aspects of that practicum, but encourage the reader to review the details that Gene has already written about. I obtained the four essential drawings (Body, Sheer, Half Breadth and Inboard Profile) from the book, The History of the American Sailing Navy by H.I. Chappelle, 1948 which was readily available on Amazon for $22. I enlarged the the main plan by 500% and the Inboard Profile by 515% to achieve 1:48 (Please use my percentages as a guide, not as gospel). For those interested in doing this, simply make sure that 10 scale feet = 2 1/2 inches on the enlarged plan. There are plenty of conversion charts available to help with this. Again, Gene also does a great job of explaining this in his Eagle practicum. I was fortunate to obtain the midship bend dimensions from the Kevin Crisman thesis, The Eagle: An American Brig on Lake Champlain During the War of 1812. A link can be found on this site, the download is free and its a fantastic read about the Eagle. It also does a great job of comparing and contrasting the Eagle with the Peacock as well as other ships on the lakes and ocean during the 18th century. This thesis was my primary motivator for the Peacock build. I enlarged the midship bend by 193% to obtain 1:48. (not shown) Here are the plans (I will show the Inboard Profile at a later date):   You will note that there are three buttock lines which I will use for the underside dimensions when lofting, as well as six water lines. It is essential to check your lines to ensure that they are accurate. I am very happy to say that these are very accurate! Make any adjustments now, or you will pay later... The Eagle practicum shows you how to loft the lines. Also note the slight tumblehome as shown in the body plan, where the sides of the ship roll inward at the sheer as emphasized by the dotted line which is perpendicular to the keel. Note that the Load Water Line (LWL) is higher in the stern than bow, coming in just below WL 6 at the stern (left side of drawing) and in between WL's 4 & 5 at the bow. These are the things that you should study prior to getting started when building from the plans. It is essential to understand how each line relates to the other. A year ago, I couldnt tell you the difference between a waterline, buttock line or clothesline - now when I see a ship plan I see it as a three dimensional ship - If I can do it, so can you! After checking the lines, I got started on the scaled dimensions of the ship and studies the plans to ensure I knew what each line meant. This requires a little detective work, but really helps make the ship come to life. The dimensions are as follows:  Room and Space Room and space for the plans is defined in the beginning of the Chappelle book, its simply the portion of one frame at the centerline carried to the CL of the next frame and includes the open space in between. The Peacock R&S is 25 inches, which converts to a smidge over 1/2 inch in my book. I will make the frames 3/8 inch and the space 1/8th, the left over 1/64th of an inch will work itself out. Framing Tape I have had great success with my framing tape. I used Visio to make the tape since it has a scaling program attached to it. The tape allows me to tweak the R&S so that I can optimize the placement of the frames so that they hit the CL of each Station Frame as best as possible. This is not an exact science, especially since the station lines are not exactly equidistant. That being said, this practice will allow for better accuracy when lofting frames and really matters if you plan to use the Body Plan. Everything is related in a house of cards fashion.   You will see in this half breadth that I am placing 9 bow cant frames. You can also see the LWL and top timber line. I compared these to the Sheer Plan to ensure that they are accurate. The most pronounced tumblehome is found at the bow as indicated by the location of the top timbers and the max beam at the cant frames. Its ever so slight in the stern.  Here is the sheer plan amidships. Note the midship frame as well as how each station frame line lands within a frame. The distortion is from the camera. Note the identification of the rabbet (highlighted in yellow) as well as the three buttock lines (a,b,c) and the six water lines in the half breadth.  I have not carried the stern framing all the way back yet. I need to do further research to see if the stern frames were canted or not. The Brown brothers who build this ship, also built the Eagle. Those stern frames are not canted, but was that for speed in construction or how it was done at the time on American ships. Question for you experts out there: Should the stern frames be canted? Next steps: 1. Place the bearding line on the sheer plan 2. Make a lofting template 3. Layout the stern frames [ Edited Fri May 23 2014, 05:32pm ] | ||
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| Gary M |
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| Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 909 | Gene, Dave, Winston, Arthur and others, please see my question at the end of my last post. I would appreciate some discussion around the stern frames for the Peacock. Was it canted? Thanks! G | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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 Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1782 | Gary, I couldn't tell you if the stern frames were canted. My guess is that they were, but I can't substantiate this guess. Other info that might be of use: Keel -- 3 pieces of oak, sided 11 1/2", moulded 1'1". Frames -- a floor, two first futtocks, two second futtocks, and two top timbers. A typical floor was 9 to 9 1/2" sided by 13 1/2" moulded between the keel and the keelson, 16 1/2" at the rabbet, and 9 1/2" at the head. First futtocks -- sided 7 1/8" by moulded 16 1/2" at the rabbet, and 7 1/2" by 8 1/2"at the head. All were bolted laterally to the floor. There were no knees used in the vessel. Instead, 10 or 11 riders along each side of the hull, four ahead of the midframe angling forward and the rest angling aft. Varied in dimension from 7" to 10" square, extend from the keelson to the deck clamp. This info comes from "Warships of the Greak Lakes 1754-1834" by Robert Malcomson. Gene | ||
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| Gary M |
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| Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 909 | Thank you as alway, Gene! Best, G | ||
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| Chad |
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 Registered Member #4119 Joined: Wed Feb 13 2013, 06:35pmPosts: 36 | Gary- You're a lofting machine! You're going to have three ships lofted and built by the time I get half the frames on my poor Eagle! All kidding aside... I don't visit and post in the forums as often as I should, but great work so far on all three! -Chad | ||
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| daves |
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| Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 2624 | like Gene I could not say for sure but my guess is they were canted. Reason is Noah Brown teamed up with Henry Eckford to build the war ships on the lake so Henry I would think influenced Noah to design for speed building. The Peacock was built by Noah in his own yard so I would think he built it his way with the use of canted stern frames. One idea would be to check how the Niagara and Lawrence were built these were two other Brown build ship so if the Niagara had canted frames then you can figure that was the norm for a Brown built ship and the Eagle was a fluke influenced by Eckford. The Brown brothers were more traditional ship builders Eckford was more of a "lets try this method" kind of builder. [ Edited Fri May 30 2014, 01:53pm ] | ||
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| daves |
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| Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 2624 | the information on the framing of the Niagara is out there because I saw pictures of the timbers when they were raised and there is a ton of pictures of all the Niagara rebuilds. | ||
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| aew |
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aew  Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 2838 | Gary: Can't help you on that subject. You may notice that I keep a low profile as far as hull design lofting etc are concerned!  | ||
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| daves |
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| Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 2624 | here is a photo of either the Niagara or the Lawrence I would think it is the Lawrence because other photos show the Niagara hull had more of the sides. anyhow I do know this is misery Bay where the ships were sunk because I have been there a few times and recognize the area if you zoom in at the stern you can see the last frames are canted  | ||
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