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USS Peacock POF 1:48 - Scratch |
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Gary M |
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![]() Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 904 | Stern Deadwood: I have now begun work on the stern deadwood. In doing so, I had to add a few lines such as the "rising wood" which is the line just above the rabbit that runs the entire length of the keel. I made sure that this line, as well as the timber floor and keelson dimensions corresponded with the framing template. You will note the deadwood layout and the bearding line. I reviewed many models and diagrams and eventually came back to the Eagle as my basis. Crisman noted that the Peacock framing was of similar construction to the Eagle. One concern that I have is the distance between the inner post and the fashion piece (frame 33). I feel that they should rest closer together. I am not sure if this ship had a counter like the Eagle or something more substantial like a winged transom. If it had a winged transom, should I add another inner post with notching for the wing transom pieces. Having never built a ship of this type, I am unsure on how to proceed in this area. Thoughts on how to deal with the transom??? Thanks, Gary ![]() | ||
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daves |
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![]() Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 3560 | ![]() ![]() looks like the stern of the Niagara and the Eagle were built about the same way. Both ships built by Noah Brown so two out of three ain't bad I would guess the Peacock had the same stern construction. [ Edited Fri Jul 18 2014, 12:34am ] | ||
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Gary M |
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![]() Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 904 | Hi Dave, Thanks for these drawings! Very nice! As for the Transom, I will build it as you have shown on the Niagra. Do you think my Stern deadwood is ok as is, or should it have a stern knee and be beefed up to better reflect the stern of other ocean going vessels of her size? Or, can we just say that this is the Brown brothers styel? Im not a purist in the strictest sense, but would like to have the model represent the ship in the best way possible. Thanks, G | ||
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daves |
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![]() Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 3560 | an issue I have run into in the past was not having enough deadwood to attach the foot of the frames to. Looking at the drawing the blue arrow is showing there is nothing behind the frame, the only point of contact will be the lower yellow area.![]() you have to make sure there is enough deadwood so the foot of the frame can attach to it. The black arrow shows the length of the frame foot above the rising line plus extra above the frame. Sometimes a shallow box was cut into the side of the deadwood to insert the end of the frame. Note the last frame is a triple frame giving the transom beam something to sit on. ![]() if not then the frame will stick up beyond the deadwood ![]() in this model I redid the deadwood so the stern frames had the correct amount of deadwood. using two sided tape I stuck the frames to the deadwood just to check it all out. ![]() [ Edited Sat Jul 19 2014, 02:09pm ] | ||
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daves |
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![]() Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 3560 | the corrected height of the deadwood gives enough backing for the fashion timber.![]() this style or method of stern construction was quite common ![]() ![]() | ||
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Gary M |
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![]() Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 904 | Dave, fantasic! This is very helpful. I will layout my stern cant frames and make sure the deadwood is high enough to support the foot of those frames. I would love to see more photos of that diorama. What ship and when did you build it? Thanks, G [ Edited Sat Jul 19 2014, 02:24pm ] | ||
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Gary M |
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![]() Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 904 | Dave, Gene and others, Below are drafts of Peacock frames 19 and 25. You will note that there is ample floor on frame 19, but as you move aft, the footing disappears (as shown in Frame 25) and you are left with a sliver of wood on the frame as it sits next to the keelson. Frame 25 was to be my last square frame, but there is nowhere for the foot of the frame to attach since the keelson is so low. The plans show the rabbet line as one straight line without any rise towards the stern. I attached a portion of the sheer plans with the frames and keelson drawn in. I am wondering: a). Is the stern deadwood to short? Should I extend it to frame 20 or 21? And if I extend the stern deadwood, then I would cant these frames as well? I already know from past discussions with Dave that I may need to heighten it for the cant frame footings. b). Keep frames 20-25 as square frames and put a gentle rise in the keelson so there is ample floor for the foot of these square frame to attach. Thanks for your help here! Gary Note the ample floor on frame 19. ![]() Note the frame as it approaches the keelson. No place for foot of frame to attach. ![]() ![]() | ||
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daves |
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![]() Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 3560 | ![]() notice the frame in the upper left corner and the frame at the left in the last row. What is going one the floors are rising which means the keelson is on an angle running to the stern. You do not want to many 1/2 frames as they are weaker than full frames so to correct the problem your having is the angle the keelson. This is what I found out when drawing frames taught to me by Robert Bruckshaw, he said you have to know the shape of the frames first and then design the keelson and deadwood to match the frame floors. On the drawings the rabbit line would run straight all the way to the stern post because the garboard and bottom plank ends sit against the deadwood. | ||
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daves |
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![]() Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 3560 | a simple guide line or rule of thumb is you don't want to pile more timber on the end of the keel. It will cause the hull to sag at the ends "hogging" so raise the floors. At the most for this size ship around 6 to 8 half frames in the stern. | ||
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Gary M |
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![]() Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 904 | Dave, thanks again for great information. I will take your advice regarding frame layout. The puzzle is coming together more and more each day. These are by far my best frame drawings. Ehnanced skills comes with patience, practice, and a deeper understaning of the subject matter. Best, G | ||
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