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| A Bluenose Build | ||
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| Author | Post | ||
| Capefearflier |
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  Registered Member #997 Joined: Wed Jun 30 2010, 02:43pmPosts: 54 | My name is Mark A. Dias and like many others on the site I’m new to Model Ship Building. For a number of years I’ve been building and flying Large Scale RC Aircraft. My greatest enjoyment was to build a flyable scale plane as exact as possible to its full size counterpart. I’ve done a number of aircraft building threads in the past, and found the input of other to be extremely helpful. Please feel free to offer any input or criticisms which you may have. My goal is to have my first build look similar to the below picture.  [ Edited Wed Dec 01 2010, 08:14pm ] | ||
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| Capefearflier |
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| Registered Member #997 Joined: Wed Jun 30 2010, 02:43pmPosts: 54 | Unfortunately there’s not a Model Building Club where I live which is near Cape Fear NC., so I’ve been reading a number of books, reviewing several practicum’s and gleaming a lot of information off of the site. With this information in hand, I decided to build, as many do, the Bluenose from Model Shipways as my first project. Comparing this kit to my previous experience of kit and scratch building r/c planes, I find the quality of wood to be above average,and the laser cutting is excellent. After completing the inventory of the kit I started with the assembly of the keel. With the joints cleaned, I glued the three pieces making up the keel together.  [ Edited Fri Dec 10 2010, 12:27am ] | ||
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| Capefearflier |
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| Registered Member #997 Joined: Wed Jun 30 2010, 02:43pmPosts: 54 | I’m hoping someone can help me with a question I have. In the practicum I’m using, it speaks about cutting a 1/16” deep groove between the rabbet & bearding line from the bow to the stern. This isn’t an issue at the bow because they are so close together but as you go to the stern they widen to several inches apart. My question is, is groove continued from the rabbet to the bearding line all the way to the stern? This would be a lot of wood to remove from the keel? | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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  Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1782 | Mark, Apparently, your planking material is 1/16" thick. Yes, the rabbet runs from the top of the bow planking to the inner side of the sternpost planking. But when you cut the rabbet, realize that the rabbet is the place where the planking comes in contact with the deadwood at the bearding line at the stern area. There, right at the bearding line, is the place where the planking just begins to touch the deadwood; therefore, the depth of the cut is negligible right at this point. However, the depth of the cut becomes slightly deeper and deeper until you reach the bottom of the rabbet, where it should be 1/16" deep. In other words, there is a very slight bevel from the bearding line to the rabbet line at the deadwood area. The bevel is 1/16" deep at the rabbet line, decreasing to zero at the bearding line. The object to cutting this rabbet is to have each and every plank rest snugly in the rabbet. Toward the stern, the planking will rest evenly with the sternpost and the keel. Does this description make sense to you? If not, please tell me. Gene | ||
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| Capefearflier |
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| Registered Member #997 Joined: Wed Jun 30 2010, 02:43pmPosts: 54 | Gene, That makes perfect sense. A descending groove running for the bearding to the rabbet line ending at a depth of 1/16”, your explanation was great. Thanks for the help. | ||
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| Capefearflier |
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| Registered Member #997 Joined: Wed Jun 30 2010, 02:43pmPosts: 54 | Happy New Year, I’ve been making some progress and have a question, which I hope someone can help me with. I nearly have the hull planked, and hope to have the planking completed soon. My question is sanding the hull. From what I’ve read the hull should be sanded, coated with wood fill re-sanded and repeat as necessary. My plan is to paint the hull as the original was. The question is, what is best to sander to use for sanding the hull? Something narrow with a flexible base so it doesn’t cause flat spots? Something ridged? If anyone has any advise I’d appreciate your input. Thanks… [ Edited Wed Jan 12 2011, 04:34pm ] | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1782 | Mark, If you need to use wood filler, apply that first. After the filler dries, sand those areas smooth. Then apply a coat or two of a good quality sanding sealer, which will fill the tiny pores in the wood as well as the wood filler. Then sand with a piece of sandpaper placed around a wood block about 3 x 5 x 1 or so. Use progressively finer grit paper each time you sand. Finally, sand with a fine-grit sandpaper by hand (no block). This should result in a nice smooth surface for your paint. Gene | ||
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| Richardt |
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 Registered Member #1244 Joined: Thu Nov 04 2010, 04:59pmPosts: 122 | Hi Mark, May I jump in here with a quick comment. I missed a proceedure in your Log. After assembling the keel you will have mounted the bulkheads. These need to be faired to accept a smooth run of the planking. To do this, I feel more comfortable using a longer block than Gene has suggested for the planking itself. I usually use a few blocks with different grits glued onto pieces of ¼" by about 10" plywood. The extra length seves two purposes: Less frequent changing of the paper but more importantly, the sanding block should be long enough to straddle at least three bulkheads or even four. This assists to ensure that the bulkheads are faired uniformly to accomodate the planks. I also hate to use blunt sandpaper and change it prehaps earlier than most modellers. Especially the finer grits. Spend a few cents more and buy a quality product. The chances of having say a P90 grit particle in a P360 paper are greatly reduced. Don't wait for your model to recieve a nasty scratch from lousy paper. So far, your mopdel is looking bonny. Keep up the good work! Richard | ||
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| Capefearflier |
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| Registered Member #997 Joined: Wed Jun 30 2010, 02:43pmPosts: 54 | Thanks for the great advice. Gene, What kind of sealer do you use or would you recommend? Richard, I did fair in the bulkheads once they were installed. I was somewhat hesitant on removing too much from the bulkheads because I didn’t want to alter the hull lines. I think on my next build I’ll be less hesitant. Thanks for the nice comments… | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1782 | Mark, There are different brands available from Home Depot and Lowe's. I've used 3 or 4 different brands and they're all good. The one I'm currently using is called Clear Quick Dry Sanding Sealer made by Benjamin Moore & Co., which I think I bought at Lowe's. Gene | ||
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