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| Gondola Philadelphia (1776), scratch 1:16 scale | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| Author | Post | ||
| Gene Bodnar |
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  Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1776 | Stone ballast: About 3,375 pounds of stone ballast appears under the aft deck to counter-balance the weight of the bow gun. To simulate the stones I used about a cup of aquarium gravel mixed with 2 tablespoons of Elmer’s Carpenter’s Glue along with a small amount of water. Mix it well and scoop it into the appropriate areas with a teaspoon, leveling it even with the deck beams. Let it dry. You may have to use a bit more glue for some of the stones that don’t want to cooperate.  | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1776 | Midship deck planking: This deck uses planks of 2” in thickness – the thickest planking of all 3 decks, mainly because of the extra weight that would be imposed by the two 9-pounders that were situated on this deck. The plank widths are random and extend to the outer edges of the outermost deck beams. All planks are nailed to the deck beams, as shown on Sheet 6 of the plans. A coat of Natural Stain finishes the planking. Midship deck knees: There are 6 knees bolted and nailed to the deck and side planking. Each knee has a different thickness and shape. Cut them according to the plans and glue them in place. Each knee contains two bolts and one nail. A coaming appears on each end of the midship deck planking. Essentially, each coaming consists of two long-armed knees scarfed together to a central piece at the central area of the boat. Each coaming is stained and glued in place, and then secured with 5 nails and two bolts. Midship deck hardware and other items: On both port and starboard side planking there are 3 ringbolts and 2 eyes. All are formed from 16-gauge black wire and secured into appropriately drilled holes with CA glue. Two holes are drilled through the hull on either side of the forward coaming for the deadeye straps. A single ¾” hole is drilled through the hull on the starboard side just forward of the No. 1 knee for the topsail tye.   | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1776 | Aft deck planking: Use 1/16” wood for this deck, and follow the plank widths shown on Sheet 6 of the plans. Fit the planks against the side planking and the frames, beveling them as necessary. Glue them in position, and place a weight on them until they dry. Give the planks a coat of Natural Stain. Finally, drive two nails on each plank at each deck beam. Lockers/Seats: The aft deck contains two lockers/seats, one on each side of the vessel. The top is a 1/8”-thick piece of wood that has been cut and beveled to fit the curvature of the side planking. The sides and front are made of 1/16” wood and glued to the top piece. In addition, there are end pieces on each locker/seat that are 1/8” thick that are toenailed to the deck and side planking. The structures are given a coat of Natural Stain.  | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1776 | Forward deck planking: Like the aft deck, the forward deck is planked with 1/16”-thick wood and treated much the same as the aft deck. Note that the ends of the four outboard planks conform to the same of the knee beneath it. When the planks are installed, they are nailed with 4 nails on each plank at every deck beam. Gun tracks: Each track for the 12-pounder gun consists of two lengths of wood that extend the full length of the forward deck, with their forward ends beveled to fit the bow planking. They are glued and bolted to the deck. At the aftermost end of the gun tracks, a piece of T-shaped wood is fit around the tracks and glued and bolted in place. Ringbolts and eyes in the bow" These ringbolts and eyes are used for the 12-pounder. They are made of 16-gauge black wire with a 3/16” inside diameter. They are glued with CA glued into appropriate holes drilled into the side planking. Hawse holes After drilling ¼” holes in their proper locations, I cut a piece of heavy plastic tubing to its proper length, beveling the cut to fit nicely with the inside and outside planking. After painting the plastic black, I glued it in place in each hole. This completes the basic deck structures for the three decks.    | ||
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| GuntherMT |
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 Registered Member #4509 Joined: Thu Oct 23 2014, 08:34pmPosts: 9 | Beautiful work Gene. I look forward to your updates every day. | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1776 | Thanks, Brian. I look forward to making the posts, too. This is definitely a fun model to build. Gene | ||
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| bensid54 |
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 Registered Member #2957 Joined: Wed Jun 13 2012, 05:43amPosts: 1012 | I really like this build Gene! I for one like to build boats that are not mainstream but do take some skill and this would be the type to wet my appetite. | ||
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| Gary M |
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| Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 902 | Beautiful work, Gene! I love the nail and bolt details. G | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1776 | Thanks, Jim and Gary. This boat is certainly different from the mainstream vessels. There is so much detail on the plans, even down to such things are cooking pots and a frying pan, that it should keep me busy for months and months. Another factor that makes it so interesting is that I'm not building it for somebody else -- it's one I've wanted to build for myself for several years now. Gene | ||
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| Gary M |
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| Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 902 | Will you actually keep it? Will that be a first? G | ||
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