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Colonial Schooner Hannah 1/4 scale.....by Mario |
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Moderators: Winston, aew
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Author | Post | ||
ToddM |
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![]() Registered Member #4538 Joined: Wed Dec 10 2014, 05:47pmPosts: 244 | This is very interesting. Mario you say the edges are over sized so as to sand to the correct line accurately. I am curious about the notch that goes over the keel. I am assuming that this is not oversized other than squaring up the laser cut? Also with regards to this same notch would it not be more accurate to glue the 1st layer over 2nd layer? I ask this not because I know that it would be but to understand the process better. Also thanks for showing this build. I will be watching with interest. Todd | ||
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teleman |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1393 | Arthur thanks for stopping by. All I can say it doesn't take much to entertain you. Cause I ain't doing much. LOL! Todd here is the answer to your questions...Thanks very much for stopping by. I would like to clarify a question asked on the frame building of the kit. I forgot to mention this. On the picture you will see these little notches at the bottom of the frame. Highlighted by the red circle. Well per Bob Hunt’s practicum. He configure these taps as he calls them with his laser program. The taps are there to strengthen that portion of the frame during construction of the hull. Once the hull is completed. I remove from the build jig. During the fairing process of the hull I will remove them. But making sure the frame sits properly in the rabbet…. The frames are oversized because of the laser cutting. Bob mentions this in his practicum. My apologies for not mentioning this. ![]() ![]() [ Edited Wed Apr 20 2016, 02:45pm ] | ||
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Bob H. |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #624 Joined: Mon Jan 11 2010, 07:32pmPosts: 67 | Hi Mario, You are correct about the tabs at the bottom of the frames. I found out years ago that when the frame comes down to a point where it sits on the keel, it is easy to chip the frame and ruin it at that point. That's when I started putting extra wood at the bottom of the frame to prevent that from happening. One other comment regarding the frame drawings. The outside lines are the lines of the frame parts edges. The inside lines are the bevel lines. The inside line along the outer edge is the outside bevel line and the inside line along the inside edge of the frame is the inside bevel lines. They don't come into play until after the frame is made. Then you rubber cement one pattern on each sided of the frame. You trim away the outside bevel line on the floor side of the frame and trim away the inside bevel line on the opposite side. The floor of the frame faces the stem on frames from the center of the ship forward and the stern of the ship on frames aft of the center of the ship. Take care, Bob | ||
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teleman |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1393 | Hi Bob, That is my next step tonight. The color coding of the inner n outer bevels is a great asset to the kit. having fun Sir. | ||
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donfarr |
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![]() Registered Member #2001 Joined: Fri Dec 23 2011, 09:51pmPosts: 1981 | Hi Everyone, I too am building Bobs Hannah and find it just GREAT for an intermediate like me, have been following Marios build as usual GREAT CRAFTMANSHIP AND SKILL IN EXPLAINING HIS BUILD also very quick, I started with putting the frames together up frame No.17, they go quickly even for a slow builder have also completed the keel assembly and watching and going over the practorium on the Building Jig to make sure I understand it before starting it, as soon as I have got my camera working right will post some of my pictures here. Don | ||
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Bob H. |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #624 Joined: Mon Jan 11 2010, 07:32pmPosts: 67 | Hi Mario, All frames were totally re-lofted. I created new waterlines for both the inside and outside frames shapes and re-lofted every frame including the cant frames both inside and outside so the bevel lines are very accurate. Once you bevel the frames, very little sanding is needed to fair the framework out when the hull is removed from the jig. Take care, Bob | ||
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teleman |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1393 | Thanks Bob that is a good thing to know. Gonna stay real close to those lines. | ||
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teleman |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1393 | Well I am done with Frame 1. So now that I have gone thru the procedure of building the frames. It's time to get into it and get thru this portion of the build. Then I can start getting things put together on the build board...![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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Bob H. |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #624 Joined: Mon Jan 11 2010, 07:32pmPosts: 67 | Looking good Mario, and thanks for the update. Bob | ||
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teleman |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1393 | Thanks Bob, This is a fun kit. Your detailed practicum really helps out a lot. | ||
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