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| Constellation a 1:36 scale RC model | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| Author | Post | ||
| jacknastyface2 |
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 Registered Member #5239 Joined: Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:29pmPosts: 823 | Super job Jerry! Perfect detailing. What's next? Keith. | ||
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| JerryTodd |
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  Registered Member #1987 Joined: Wed Dec 21 2011, 04:06amPosts: 98 | When I started this model, I planned on the ship's wheel to turn as the rudder was moved. I never could turn out a set of wheels I was happy with, and eventually bought a 3D printed set from Shapeways. They were very nice, but a bit brittle and very fragile. I broke off a spoke just painting the thing, and 5 or 6 spokes had broken off with almost no effort. I gave up on the wheel turning, and just installed the wheel for looks. When I got a 3D printer of my own, and a resin that's much tougher than the Shapeways parts were made with, I printed a new wheel all in one piece. I was deliberately not gentle with it, figuring I could print another if this one broke - but it didn't. One time it got flung off the model onto the concrete floor and survived intact. I had printed it with the stands attached, so it was non-functional, but I sawed the stands off and reused the wooden ones I had made for the other 3D wheel, installing a brass rod axle in this wheel and finally making it spin. Today I installed the tube fairleads through the deck for the lines to connect the wheel to the servo arm below, and wrapped and ran the Dacron line from the wheel to the servo arm's cleat for just this purpose.   Click for a little video of the wheel in operation [ Edited Wed Jun 29 2022, 09:33pm ] | ||
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| JerryTodd |
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| Registered Member #1987 Joined: Wed Dec 21 2011, 04:06amPosts: 98 | Painted both pivot guns. I need them fully painted before I screw them down onto the hatches they sit on. The pictures however, reveal some touch-up is still needed.  | ||
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| Baggywrinkle |
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  Registered Member #5759 Joined: Sat Sep 19 2020, 03:36pmPosts: 689 | Lovey detail Jerry; particularly like your pivot guns and races/sweeps. cheers Pat | ||
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| JerryTodd |
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| Registered Member #1987 Joined: Wed Dec 21 2011, 04:06amPosts: 98 | Not a lot going on to show. I decided to make the 56 stirrups for the foot-ropes on the yards from .020" brass rod after making one as a trial. I hope blackening it will do, or it'll just get painted. Trouble is, I bought the rod I have to make the dead-eye strops from, so I started figuring out what I had made, repairing and finished a few, and working out jigs to make the remainder. I have 8 sets complete and need 26 pairs of chainplates and deadeyes, and 26 pairs of deadeyes in strops (the upper deadeyes). It's quite the tedious project. I need to order some more .020" rod I guess. 3D model wise, I need 52 thimbles for the end of the lower shrouds. The strops of the upper deadeyes will attach to the shrouds with a peened pin, basically a rivet; the same way the lower ones are attached to the chain-plate. The pin is a brass escutcheon pin I annealed because it was hard to peen otherwise. Here's one chain-plate painted with primer. I'll post some details of the process as I make them.  I had glued down the foremast pin rail a few days ago, and I was going to glue down the main mast rail, but the holes in it for the fore tops'l braces to pass through weren't right. I altered the 3D model with some measurements off the model and printed it in one piece, with the pilasters attached. Since I moved the pilasters, I had to fill the holes in the deck and redrill them. Since using CA while trying to line-up 7 pilasters with their holes in the deck was likely going to be a pain, I used 1-hour epoxy instead. So here's an over-view of the deck as of the moment.  The other side project is getting my rope-walk up to snuff. I plan to use a 12 volt power supply that uses house current to run it, rather than the battery I have used, as well as making a remote control to run the head in either direction, with a cord long enough to run the 12 foot+ lengths I plan to make. | ||
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| aew |
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Arthur  Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 3035 | Jerry: Can I suggest that rather than looking for a 12V power supply you buy a cheap bench top power supply? As well as being useful for other jobs it will give you speed control of your rope walk. (I suspect I may be in danger of "teaching my grandmother to suck eggs" with this post!) | ||
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| jacknastyface2 |
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| Registered Member #5239 Joined: Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:29pmPosts: 823 | aew wrote ... Jerry: Can I suggest that rather than looking for a 12V power supply you buy a cheap bench top power supply? As well as being useful for other jobs it will give you speed control of your rope walk. (I suspect I may be in danger of "teaching my grandmother to suck eggs" with this post!) Arthur, would you care to expand a bit on the "electrics" of these bench top power supplies? I see there are different ranges of voltages available. Maybe it would make a good post for us chippies. Keith. | ||
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| JerryTodd |
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| Registered Member #1987 Joined: Wed Dec 21 2011, 04:06amPosts: 98 | I already have a 12v 5 amp power supply like that used for laptop computers, on the way. I think it'll be more portable and as I don't have a "bench-top" to speak off...  The ropewalk's been a work in progress for years. It started with a hand-crank, but that doesn't cut it when making line 8-12 feet long, so it got powered from an old Craftsman cordless drill whose batteries wouldn't charge any more. I have another motor from the same type of drill I intend to use at the other end. I want to put the controls on a tether so I can move up and down as need be. I may put a rheostat for the head piece in the loop.   When I started this I meant to make it a hanging ropewalk, when the head's mounted up high and the line hungs with a weight at the bottom. I don't have a place to set that up for the lengths I want to make, so it was altered to be a horizontal system.  I plan to put a page on my site with all the details of the "finished" ropewalk when I get it working. At some point I'm going to make a 4 strand version with a place for a center core, but I don't have any need for that yet, so it'll be a while till then. [ Edited Thu Jun 23 2022, 02:28am ] | ||
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| JerryTodd |
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| Registered Member #1987 Joined: Wed Dec 21 2011, 04:06amPosts: 98 | Been doing mostly little things that I don't have a pictures of. Making eyes, lots of eyes for the futtock bands on the masts, and under the tops for bunt blocks and such. I found a nice pair of Looper Pliers on Amazon that makes eye making quick and consistent. Unfortunately the smallest size they make does a 1.5mm eye which is useful at the 1:36 and 1:20 scales I work in, but probably be too big for the smaller scales most folks her model in. Anyway, when we did the National Maritime Day festival back in May, my friend Mark sailed in 48 inch schooner Chiodhna (Clee-na) for the first time.  He's controlling his sails with a clothesline-loop sort of system. So I got an idea from that to hopefully get my Baltimore Clipper sailing at last, and have pulled that out and been working on that.  [ Edited Mon Aug 22 2022, 08:15pm ] | ||
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| JerryTodd |
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| Registered Member #1987 Joined: Wed Dec 21 2011, 04:06amPosts: 98 | The port-side hammocks were glued on at the end of May. I finally got the starboard side glued on and started grinding the "trays" flush with the bulwarks in-board and out. I strip of 1/16" basswood serves as a trim rail and covers the seam between the trays and the bulwark.    | ||
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