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HMS Beagle (1820) scratch-built 1:48 scale

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Moderators: Winston, aew, bikepunk

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Mike 41

Thu Nov 17 2016, 12:21am

Registered Member #702

Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pm
Posts: 1238

HMS Beagle (1820)

History

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

History
United Kingdom
Ordered: 16 February 1817
Laid down: June 1818
Launched: 11 May 1820
Commissioned: 1820
Decommissioned: 1845, transferred to Coastguard
Fate: Sold and broken up 1870
General characteristics
Class and type: Cherokee-class brig-sloop
Tons burthen: 235 bm; 242 for second voyage[1]
Length: 90.3 ft (27.5 m)
Beam: 24.5 ft (7.5 m)
Draught: 12.5 ft (3.8 m)
Sail plan: Brig from 1825)
Complement: 120 as a ship-of-war, 65 plus 9 supernumeraries on second voyage
Armament: 10 guns, reduced to 6 guns for first survey voyage, changed to 7 guns during second survey voyage

The HMS Beagle served as Charles Darwin's floating laboratory on his historic voyage to the Galapagos Islands.

Drawings:
I traced the drawings I needed to generate the modeling plans from the book Anatomy of the ship HMS Beagle using AutoCAD.

The Keel Assemble
The Keel Assembly is 24 ½” long x ¼” thick European Beachwood. Since this is going to be a Navy Board type model I simplified the keel and framing.

This set of photos shows the keel assembly and the first two frames. All the frames are double and consist of ten individual sections each.

dave1254

Thu Nov 17 2016, 10:12pm

Registered Member #2647

Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:08pm
Posts: 450

looking good Mike looking forward to the build
Dave

Mike 41

Thu Nov 17 2016, 10:28pm

Registered Member #702

Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pm
Posts: 1238

Thanks Dave, the Beagle was a small ship and should be fun to model.

Mike

Mike 41

Sat Nov 26 2016, 02:03pm

Registered Member #702

Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pm
Posts: 1238

The frames have all been cut out and fitted to the keel. This is a few photos showing the frames and building board.

The gantry style building board I am using has been through several previous builds and is holding up well. A description of the board is posted under Jigs & Things as ‘Building Board Gantry Type’ and explains why I like to use it.

I am currently working on the stern framing after than is in place the bow framing is next I have found it is easier for me start on the ends and work towards the middle of the model.

Mike 41

Mon Nov 28 2016, 09:59pm

Registered Member #702

Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pm
Posts: 1238

This is a few progress photos of the stern framing. The first photo shows the addition of the poop deck transom.

The stern has a 1/32” thick solid Beachwood core that will be planked on both sides I added a photo of my thickness sander it does a great job on very thin material.

The next set of photos shows my Folgers sheet bender with the wife’s hair dryer for the heat supply. It is faster than bending the wood wet and waiting for it to dry out. Many other people have been using this system it was not an original thought.

The next photos show the lower transoms and stern being installed on the keel assembly.

After the timbers on the outer stern timber are installed and the transoms below the wing transom I will start the Knightheads and Hawse pieces.

Any comments or questions are welcome.

Mike 41

Sat Dec 03 2016, 01:49pm

Registered Member #702

Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pm
Posts: 1238

The stern framing is finished for now. The bow framing is next on the list.

Gene Bodnar

Sat Dec 03 2016, 09:57pm

Registered Member #126

Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20am
Posts: 1782

Mike,

Very nicely done.

Gene

aew

Sun Dec 04 2016, 08:57am

aew

Registered Member #1929

Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pm
Posts: 2683

That's a substantial bit of framing.

Mike 41

Sun Dec 04 2016, 12:45pm

Registered Member #702

Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pm
Posts: 1238

Thanks Gene and Arthur, there is some very good details in the AOS book.

Mike

Mike 41

Wed Dec 07 2016, 02:09pm

Registered Member #702

Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pm
Posts: 1238

The bow framing started with the installation of the most forward frame ‘O’. I generated patterns for the Hawse pieces from the existing drawings after the pieces were cut out I glued them to the frame bread and butter style. I trimmed the timbers to the proper height and sanded the interior and exterior smooth. The last step was to drill the hawse holes.