| Model Ship Builder :: Forums :: Build Logs :: POB Build Logs |
|
<< Previous thread | Next thread >> |
| Mamoli RattleSnake | ||
| Go to page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 | |
|
Moderators: Winston, aew, bikepunk
|
| Author | Post | ||
| firelemure |
| ||
 Registered Member #5613 Joined: Mon Sep 03 2018, 08:28pmPosts: 34 | Dear all, I propose to share with you the progress of my second wooden ship, the Rattlesnake made by Mamoli. I hope you will excuse my limited vocabulary in English regarding ship parts. Here are the photos from the first steps ... After the skeleton, the main deck planking :  Some additional elements :  Starting the hull first layer :      The rear is quite difficult to do ... I hope the second layer will help to mask issues.  [ Edited Wed Feb 20 2019, 03:15pm ] | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
  Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 812 | Welcome aboard Will be nice to follow your build  I like your deck look, first time I see that layout 50/50 curve Do not worry for nautical term I mix them all the time on top to have to find translation from French to English I found this recently http://phrontistery.info/nautical.html 2 for you Front = bow Rear = stern for your hull a trick that another modeller teaches me is to use wood putty that once sand will smooth the Hull and facility the second layer to understand me look how I use it on the Calella my bow and stern was uglier then yours in the end came out not bad | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| firelemure |
| ||
| Registered Member #5613 Joined: Mon Sep 03 2018, 08:28pmPosts: 34 | thank you Charles. I'll use the glossary ! I forgot to tell you that the pictures where take a while ago. In fact, the full story is that I purchased the kit in 2010 I think. I was quite busy in 2010/2011, and I got my children in 2012. And by the way my first name is Fabien. Regarding the 50/50 curve, in fact I found it somewhere on the web, but it was a long time ago. Not sure this is like the original, but it's done, so ... | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| firelemure |
| ||
| Registered Member #5613 Joined: Mon Sep 03 2018, 08:28pmPosts: 34 | Here are some pictures I took this morning. Yesterday, I just did something that is very arduous : cutting the top part of the frame. It's a very dangerous process, because you can touch the surface of the deck that is already finished. I'm not too far from the expected result...  Regarding the first layer of the hull, I used wood putty. I have a better stern now, still not perfect, but I hope the second layer will cover the remaining gaps.    | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| firelemure |
| ||
| Registered Member #5613 Joined: Mon Sep 03 2018, 08:28pmPosts: 34 | Ok now comes the question for you experts ! On the bow, I have to create this piece (figure 7 below). I am quite happy with the result, but I can't understand something : On the figure 10, (and on another) I have the feeling there is a board of wood (4x1 mm) covering the top of all sides, which seems pretty logic. But for the bow, it's not explicit at all in the explaination. I understand the board should be glued on top of the figure 7. Here is my problem : I have to bend the board (4x1), which is almost impossible. I started, but after a night in the water, and may attempts, I've just been able to bend it 60% of what should be the result. And moreover the wood has started to break, due to the difference of tension between the faces. Do you have any idea whether it is feasible ? is there a trick ? Thank you !    | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 812 | Hello Fabien 2010-2012 well a bit like me I have buy kit in 2002 still not start and have 2 start but put aside to be able to build my France liner during the summer time. Long time kids are gone. Papi now and retired (lady still work )so lots of time to do my hobby in peace =D> Last night I remember something that I read in the past a book (L’art du modelisme by Bernard Frolich edition Ancre) for the 50/50 curve deck I found that in the 17th 18th century the French navy experiment a layout like and on the hull frame slightly angle to give more strength to the ship but they stop to do it as it was taking more time to build and more expensive. For bending that board I am certain that is a better way but I have see/read 3 option and I am certain other must have better solution as it is common on all build. First one if you able to find Beech wood is a easier wood to bend and that is what Corel supplied on the Scotland and other ship (just check on 2 kit I have store) Second is cooking the wood in the microwave put the piece of wood in a whet towel and cook it at high temp. Bent cook, bent kook until you have the proper bent I have try this and it work just be careful to not burn you. Third I did not try this but read that some use ammoniac to soft the wood | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| aew |
| ||
aew   Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 2788 | Hi Fabien. I'm not sure I understand your instructions. I assume Fig 7 is the base for the railings in Fig 10 that you'e made and show in your last picture. It looks as though you're expected to make the top of the railings (part 70?) in a similar way, but that's not so simple if you have to fit it to the tops of all the posts. Are those belaying pin holes at the front? Seems odd if there's to be a cap. As far as making a capping piece is concerned you may be able to bend it if you steam it (the microwave trick sounds interesting). Otherwise cutting it from sheet or laminating it as per Fig 7 should work. (The capping rails on my 'Astrolabe' were made that way using, I think, 3mm strip and then sawing it down the middle to make two matching rails.) | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| jacknastyface2 |
| ||
| Registered Member #5239 Joined: Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:29pmPosts: 455 | Think "real ship"---how did they do it? It was not feasible to bend a long rail edge wise. As you have found out, the rail breaks. They did the rail in a series of shorter lengths. Modelers call them "scale lengths". Best if you do the same. Split the piece into about two or three pieces and trace the curve of the rail from the plans onto each piece. Cut with a fret or scroll saw. The lateral joints should be "scarfed". That is jointed at an angle so that water did not enter into the end grain. Hope this helps. Keith. [ Edited Sat Sep 08 2018, 04:18am ] | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| firelemure |
| ||
| Registered Member #5613 Joined: Mon Sep 03 2018, 08:28pmPosts: 34 | thanks for your help > arthur : that's a question. Is the figure 7 the base for the railings. If I look at some pictures of other builders, that is not sure. If it is, then I made a mistake because mine is not aligned on the external part of the hull. > Keith : it make sense. Unfortunately for both methods, I have not enough wood ... Model shops are becoming very rare even in Paris ! Just tried the steam method, looks like the wood bends easily, but it breaks also ... drawing the form on a larger sheet of wood is probably the best solution . [ Edited Sun Sep 09 2018, 08:48am ] | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| jacknastyface2 |
| ||
| Registered Member #5239 Joined: Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:29pmPosts: 455 | Bon jour Fabien, Do you know of a french forum Marine et Modelisme I think?. Here is the address.:-http://5500.forumactif.org/. There is also a Belgium forum .They both have very good modelers. It's possible they might help with purchasing some very good wood for your railing. I would suggest some pear wood. Very fine grain and it can be painted black to look like ebony or oak. These modelers mostly do "scratch" models , but don't be afraid---ask. Bonne chance! Keith. | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Go to page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 | |
Powered by e107 Forum System