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| Royal Louis 1780 Mamoli kit MV40 code 4006 1:90 | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew, bikepunk
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| Author | Post | ||
| Charles |
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  Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 715 | Yes Arthur That kit……………………  I will be nice and no comment | ||
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| jacknastyface2 |
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 Registered Member #5239 Joined: Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:29pmPosts: 369 | Arthur and Charles, gentlemen. Charles the last few pics show your deck furniture turned out well.I see the frustrations though along the way and I have read similar comments on other forums. There is however alternatives and that is---scratch build. I know I can hear the sighs and even some of the excuses. There are pros and cons with both methods: 1) scratch built PROS. Your choice of ship/boats is vastly enlarged. With a bit of research you can buy plans from National Maritime Museum Greenwich UK.---expensive! ----or Model Expo USA. or Harold Hahn USA (I have the address somewhere), and one of the best, in my opinion is the French publishers of "monographs" by ANCRE. These are mostly plans by Jean Boudriot. Each contains several sheets of ship plans with everything detailed, guns, masting, hull, and deck furniture, also expensive like NMM.---- but what detail! You can choose what method of build you like. Use the station lines for POB and if you prefer POF, choose Hahn's simplified frame construction. With today's technology you can alter the scale at a good drawing REPRO service. Hand tools can still be used if you prefer. Remember boys at school with a fret saw? Buy good chisels and asmall hand plane and you are good to go. Wood can range from cheap to expensive. I am thinking of basswood and some fruit woods like apple, pear, and cherry. If you prefer to paint,basswood is easy to work. Gene Bodnar of this forum used it all the time. 2) scratch build CONS. It takes time and more skill to produce a good model, but it can be done. What is time when you are in the "Golden Years"?  You may want to process your own wood, either in billets or strip wood, in which case you might opt for machinery--expensive! A good scroll saw can range from cheap to expensive. I bought a DeWalt 20" second hand recently and wished I had bought it years ago! You need a lot more space. Sometimes a table top is not enough---but can be done. You will probably make mistakes and may want to scrap your work. So you have made a bit of expensive firewood! Processed wood can be bought, but I have seen about three suppliers on forums go out of the business. I am sure they did a great job at first but found that ---it aint EASY! I would not like to do it. One last CON. It does take a lot of your time just in research. You may spend a lot of money buying books. May I just add to Charles' build with a photo of my third POF model of brigantine "Leon" 1880. My first was Warrior a 78gun ship from 1781 (still not finished) and La Belle Poule 1765. Please delete if it distracts from Charles' Royal Louis. Leon took me about three years to finish, but I enjoyed every minute of it. I was retired and used to do about six hours a day on her. The ADMIRAL says "SHE WILL SINK"  Keith.  [ Edited Wed Nov 21 2018, 03:03am ] | ||
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| Charles |
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| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 715 | Keith I have 6 more kit to build before I even think of doing a scratch. I have already 2 MONOGRAPHI and 2 more full designs, so it is in the pipe dream. For now I just want to complete the Louis for now. My lady is waiting for her ship the I have postponed the build for 4 years Portuguese caravel XVI century the Säo Miguel another Mamoli kit  | ||
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| jacknastyface2 |
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| Registered Member #5239 Joined: Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:29pmPosts: 369 | Charles wrote ... Keith I have 6 more kit to build before I even think of doing a scratch. I have already 2 MONOGRAPHI and 2 more full designs, so it is in the pipe dream. For now I just want to complete the Louis for now. My lady is waiting for her ship the I have postponed the build for 4 years Portuguese caravel XVI century the Säo Miguel another Mamoli kit Hi Charles, At your speed that should be some time early 2020.  My post was meant as a suggestion for all Kit builders to consider the options when starting a build. For the first or second time builder it's maybe best to try a kit. Keith. | ||
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| Charles |
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| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 715 | Time to put that log up to date Manufacture of mantles Used the same method as for the Santisima Trinidad already expose in another post here Preparation of the doors 16-1, 16-2 Perfect 90dg 16-3 @ 16-6 All the mantles 16-7,16-8 Installed 16-9          | ||
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| Charles |
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| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 715 | Bridge guns fabrication 17-1,17-2 Preparation of each unit 17-8 17-3 @ 17-7 how do I do my little hooks 17-3 uses a small 0.5mm nail and makes a small line at 4.8mm 17-4 I use in 0.5mm lead wire 17-5 makes a magnifying glass that gives me a ring 17-6 by squeezing the rings it gives me a cold weld 17-7 a ring of 0.5mm diameter and 4mm long 17-9 the guns install     | ||
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| Charles |
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| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 715 | Manufacture of the chanel, stay and anchor 18-1, 18-2 Rudder 18-3 Mat platform as supplied 18-4 Made of new 18-5,18-6 Got problem with the white metal parts provided on the mastcap 18-7 pulleys must be installed impossible to drill in any case not with my hardware So scratch build again 18-8 @ 18-10 Install on the main mast 18-11         | ||
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| Charles |
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| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 715 | Manufacturing of mast and yards 19-1, 19-2 Large mast install as test 19-3    | ||
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| Charles |
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| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 715 | Support manufacture 20-1 what is provided Made a tackle 20-2 I find it simple and nice 20-3 The ship on its base 20-4 May 29, 2018 the ship temporarily wrapped up and set aside the time of the construction of the France and finish the Mississippi      | ||
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| Charles |
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| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 715 | I slowly start the rigging of the Louis. And I will experiment I am going to use a method that I have seen used by some and which is absolutely not according to the standard criteria of naval modeling. Frank Mastini Method Ship Modeling Book Simplified McGraw-Hill Book Publish 1990 Frank Mastini is an Italian of origin to emigrate to the USA Deceased in 2006 For 30 years he made a career as a naval model maker and built custom ships for several museums and private collectors. What Mastini recommends is to make the most of the rope of the mats on the work table or it is easy to make the connections and this before mounting the mats on the ship. As he says his will make a cable spaghetti but once the mats install it will be easy to make the internal connections. I saw this method used by some builder but I can not say if it works or not I never try it. So I start in the unknown and at worst I will have to start again if it does not work. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- According to the instructions of Mamoli I should follow an assembly order that goes from the stern to the bow so mizzen, main mast, foremast and finish with the bowsprit drawing number 6 But I decided to make the main mast first that I already made and the yard I make sure that its verticality is impeccable 21-1 So I start with the 2 most interior cables 21-2 (1) There are 4 pulleys that are connected to the channel rings 2 on each side prepare the pieces 21-3 Good according to the kit should use brass wire to make a hook and a rings on the 4 of the pulley that clings to the rings of the chanel 21-2 (3) I did one I did not like the result so I made them as I usually do. Little trick to have black rope 21-4 I simply use a black felt pen For the ring at the top of the pulley a small nails a knot and hardened with CA glue 21-5 Comparison 21-6 Another trick, this one to facilitate the passage of the cable in the small hole of pulley I adorn the end of the CA glue string which once hardened becomes rigid 21-7 once beveled easily passes through holes 21-8          | ||
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