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| Build log: Brigantine Phoenix, kit by Master Korabel | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| Author | Post | ||
| moreplovac |
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  Registered Member #4345 Joined: Sun Jan 05 2014, 11:52amPosts: 197 | The fake shives are in place, made of wire piece, twisted around the template and glued in place..  Jib boom was glued to the bowsprit and 4mm rope was used to fasten the jib boom' heel...       Blocks and thimbles will be installed later.. The masts are next... Woohoo Happy modelling... [ Edited Tue Dec 29 2020, 06:42am ] | ||
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| moreplovac |
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| Registered Member #4345 Joined: Sun Jan 05 2014, 11:52amPosts: 197 | The jib traveller was made out of a piece of wire, 0.6mm in diameter. Twist, cut, solder, blackening and done.    Then i marked all masts and yards as per plan.  Started to build the trestle-tree, first by removing laser burns...  Now it is time to start preparing for a New Year... Wish you all the best in the New Year with hopes we can go back travelling in a big way. Cheers and take care... See you in 2021.. | ||
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| NovaStorm |
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  Registered Member #5618 Joined: Sat Sep 22 2018, 02:33pmPosts: 491 | Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year to you and yours  | ||
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| moreplovac |
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| Registered Member #4345 Joined: Sun Jan 05 2014, 11:52amPosts: 197 | All parts are lightly sanded and ends were rounded, required holes are drilled with 0.6mm bit... I also inserted all eyebolts. In this case i used eyebolts provided with the kit. At this size they will not be that visible, particularly once blackened and hidden by other mast parts. You can insert them before or after you glue all parts but it is easier while all parts are easy to reach... Cross-trees are glued inside with a CA glue.   Shroud supports are glued and sanded to correct shape. Then i started to tapper mast with just a sandpaper.. The top has to be made a square to fit a mastcap.    All parts are ready for assembly..  Just make sure you follow correct angle at which the cross-trees seats on the mast.    And the mast was stained in golden oak..   Happy modelling.... | ||
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| moreplovac |
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| Registered Member #4345 Joined: Sun Jan 05 2014, 11:52amPosts: 197 | Lets put some cleats on mast... Piece of scotch tape was used to mark the location of cleats, easier to remove it after and dont have to worry about cleaning the marks afterwards...  The wire in the cleats have to be shortened a bit since wires might be preventing each other from penetrating the wood, as they supposed to be the the same line.. a bit of a glue in a drilled hole and slight push works well...  Then i started to work on topmasts.. shaping with a sandpaper and using my wood lathe..  Dry fit testing...   Extra wood will be removed...   The work on topmasts will continue later. Was feeling like working on cheers now so making a cheers was a next step. The plan and real parts are not matching in my kit so a bit of double-checking was done prior to removing all needed parts...  Cheers are put on a toothpick that was widened with a few layers of scotch tape so parts can fit in and hold in place while working on them. You can use a drill bit covered with wax or some other parts, whatever works...  Happy modelling.. [ Edited Sun Jan 03 2021, 07:13pm ] | ||
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| moreplovac |
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| Registered Member #4345 Joined: Sun Jan 05 2014, 11:52amPosts: 197 | Work on topmasts (and parts of it) continues, drilling the hole for a fid and inserting it in..   The crosstrees are build next. I decided to do the work of building the other topmast parts, getting them ready for assembly. I made two extra holes on trestle-trees (towards the back) that will be filled..    For drilling the hole, in this case 0.6mm, i used a new set of bits that Santa brought to me..   Happy modelling... | ||
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| jacknastyface2 |
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 Registered Member #5239 Joined: Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:29pmPosts: 633 | Nice set of metric bits Dragan! Do you use a hand held drill or a drill press? Reason I ask is because it's very easy to break a bit if drilling by hand. Keith. | ||
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| moreplovac |
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| Registered Member #4345 Joined: Sun Jan 05 2014, 11:52amPosts: 197 | I use both, depending on the task. For example if i have to drill a hole through the centre of a mast, i would use drill press making sure it makes the hole identically positioned on both ends.. In my case breaks are happening mostly with tiny bits, like 0.1mm, 0.2mm so i usually get few extras... | ||
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| moreplovac |
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| Registered Member #4345 Joined: Sun Jan 05 2014, 11:52amPosts: 197 | Fore/main topmast and fore/main topgallant are tapered on the mini wood lathe..  Acorns for topgallant were prepared next; it just need a hole to be widened a bit.  Main mast was tapered to required shape as well.. The top part was cut in square shape and tested with cap..  Then i was installing mast cleats. It is a bit challenging to get them in correct position...  ... but managed to get it correct. Holes were drilled and cleat with a piece of wire inserted into mast.. a bit of a glue was dropped to fill the gaps between cleats and mast...  Boom pads knees and pad was installed next.  Then i widened the opening for a mast... it is a bit scary to use a rasp but rasp provided the easiest control of the depth..  All parts were mounted on the mast with superglue....   A bit of a work on topmast...   Removed laser burns from topmast cap...  A nice layer of stain was applied...   Topgallant/topmast achtkants were next. I used a needle covered with little wax to hold the parts while glue them together.   They slide off easily with almost no wax residue on them..   Happy modelling.. | ||
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| NovaStorm |
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| Registered Member #5618 Joined: Sat Sep 22 2018, 02:33pmPosts: 491 | You are really moving along nicely. Beautiful fit and finish on everything. ~ | ||
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