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USS Hannah - scratch built 1/72 POB |
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Highwingpilot |
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![]() Registered Member #4099 Joined: Tue Jan 08 2013, 12:42pmPosts: 91 | We finished fairing the bulkheads, added the filler blocks to the bow, and built up the frames for the transom area. I think its ready now to begin planking. A relative gave me a lifetime supply of furniture veneer which was perfect for correcting low spots on the bulkeads. And I found a supply of wood coffee stirrers that I believe are made from Birch and are nearly the perfect dimensions. I've used them in the past for deck planking. They are tight grained, smooth, and fairly pliable when steamed. I have an old electric plank bender somewhere, but curious to know if any of you have had good results with the crimping plier style that Model Expo sells? Might be easier and safer for my son to use. I've sometimes soaked planks in strong black tea which resulted in a beautiful dark cherry wood color that wasn't affected by the hot plank iron. The stain even held up to sanding and helped to provide a base color before the final finish color was applied. Do any of you pre-stain your hull planks before installing to help achieve an even color before glue spills might close the grain? I started making a supply of treenails with a cheap drawplate I bought on Amazon. Works great with the Bamboo skewers. Like with the ropewalk, I just need to make sure I'm making them the right diameter. Here are shots of our progress to date: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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Highwingpilot |
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![]() Registered Member #4099 Joined: Tue Jan 08 2013, 12:42pmPosts: 91 | Just did a test of using the bamboo treenails. Before and after minwax "gunstock" stain. They're pretty, but I think I need to really need to make them smaller, or not even use them at this scale. Any thoughts on if they are too thick a diameter for my coffee stirrer planking? ![]() ![]() | ||
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Mike 41 |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #702 Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pmPosts: 1227 | Hi Jim, Your ship is looking very good. I really like your rope walk. At 1:72 scale your treenails should be about 1/32” in diameter. Mike | ||
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Highwingpilot |
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![]() Registered Member #4099 Joined: Tue Jan 08 2013, 12:42pmPosts: 91 | Thanks Mike! So my treenails might be about right after all. They seemed a bit big on the test planks. I was figuring on the hull planking would be around 9" (1/8" at 1/72). I need to find some rubber jawed pliers that won't crush the bamboo dowels when pulling through the draw plate... My fingers are killing me! But I guess any new callouses will help with learning guitar. ![]() | ||
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Mike 41 |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #702 Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pmPosts: 1227 | Hi Jim, If you are using bamboo skewers try splitting tem into six equal pieces before you pull them through the plate. The ends will still get crushed but you will not lose too much material. A little pain goes a long ways. LOL Mike | ||
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teleman |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1357 | Pretty cool little rope walk you built there | ||
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Highwingpilot |
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![]() Registered Member #4099 Joined: Tue Jan 08 2013, 12:42pmPosts: 91 | Maybe my cheap-o draw plate is a bit dull, but that bamboo is tough stuff! I switched over to cutting square strips of Popsicle stick/coffee stirrer wood. I think its some form of birch but not sure. It draws down far easier to under 1/32 without breaking. And its end grain is far tighter than the bamboo. Will have to try staining it up with some planks to see how it looks. At 1/72 scale, we might just use the treenails on the wales for the general impression where they're more apparent. Otherwise dad here is going to have some very sore fingers, or strained eyes! [slow but] Steady as she goes... | ||
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teleman |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1357 | Hi JIm, Since your going to stain the planks you can stain them first before install, but you have to be careful not to stain the area where you are going to place the glue. it won't stick too good. if you are using wood glue then you can also install the planks first. but keep a damp cloth near by to whip excess glue away. on my batteau build i stained the planks first, but was real careful not to place any where the glue was going to touch... Your Hannah is coming along nicely... | ||
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Michael Mott |
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![]() Registered Member #4083 Joined: Wed Nov 21 2012, 12:46amPosts: 121 | Jim great thinking regarding the rope walk and the seizing machines, the technik Lego is a great resource. Michael | ||
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Highwingpilot |
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![]() Registered Member #4099 Joined: Tue Jan 08 2013, 12:42pmPosts: 91 | I had to take off a few weeks to help 3 of my boys with their Pinewood Derby cars for cubscouts. (Came in 1st, 2nd, and 9th). But the oldest and I are back in the boatyard! We took a trip to Baltimore harbor to visit the U.S.S. Constellation for inspiration. That's the ship that got me building ship models back in 5th grade (a long time ago). We took a lot of detailed photos if anyone needs any resource shots... I think the guides thought I was crazy taking close ups of treenails, deck calking, deadeyes, cannons and the like. Until I told him we were building a wooden ship model. In between coats of sanding sealer on the boys cars, I made a few digital test models of the 4-pounder guns to have digitally printed - using an open-source software called Blender. And will be adding other fittings if those print well. I'll let you know how they work out and will post photos of the printed pieces soon. You can check out the models at the printing service I use: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/modelshipfittings Just starting on the hull planking again. And deabting if I should start from the wales and work up and down. The garboard strakes have been laid, and seem to work okay. But I remember adding the wales early on help to keep everything ship shape. ![]() | ||
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