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| US Brig Eagle at 1:48 scale | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| Author | Post | ||
| Jean-Michel T |
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  Registered Member #4157 Joined: Sun Mar 17 2013, 10:04pmPosts: 20 | Hi everyone It was March 17, 2013 when I started getting ready for this project. Today day 2 is the beginning of my log for my first Model Ship Building. I have never done this before but discovering how to build this beautiful US Brig Eagle (1814) and seeing it come alive will be so rewarding. I will follow the instructions from the link under projects The US Brig Eagle 1814 practicum. Feel free to comments and post tips to my building log. I initially printed the plan on page 251 and 252 of Kevin Crisman's thesis book The Eagle: An American Brig on Lake Champlain during the War of 1812 but then I noticed the link Download Plans Here!!! that have a set of plan with line that are much clearer. The process of printing the plan to the right scale was not that simple because I had to go trough a process of trial and errors before finding the right way to do it . So here are the steps if you're going to work on the same project : -Open the Brava Reader application -Click open file icon and search the plan where you saved it -Click Measure -Click calibrate and measure 10' length on the plan and enter 2.5" on the pop up window, this also correspond to 1/4" = 1' (1:48 scale) -Click print region -Make sure to choose calibrate measurement scale. -Clink Print and wait for the magic to happen! Here are the first set of pictures    The compas come pretty handy to measure the 2.5" on the plan before taping between the 4 sheets of paper.  The plan I printed are 1-Half breadth plan 2-Sheer plan 3-Inboard profile 4-Deck 5-Body plan    | ||
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| teleman |
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  Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1390 | Good to see you start Jean... | ||
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| Jean-Michel T |
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| Registered Member #4157 Joined: Sun Mar 17 2013, 10:04pmPosts: 20 | Thanks Mario ,this is just the first step...:) | ||
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| teleman |
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| Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1390 | Jean, When I did my first I was told to plan at least a couple of moves ahead always. And remember the PIRATES CODE...there more like guidelines. If you can find a better way to do it and easier for you then do it... | ||
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| Pete38 |
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  Registered Member #4127 Joined: Fri Feb 15 2013, 01:04pmPosts: 79 | Very nice start to your build. Very informative post and detail. Looking forward to more and will follow with interest. | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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 Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Jean-Michel, Interesting approach. It works, apparently. Instead of using "calibrated measurement scale," another way is to determine the percentage increase you want in the plans, and plug this number in the "Scale to" box (just above your box). Good thinking. Gene | ||
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| Tim C |
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 Registered Member #4126 Joined: Fri Feb 15 2013, 05:19amPosts: 1113 | Looks like someone has a plan.. Looking good. Later 42rocker | ||
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| Jean-Michel T |
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| Registered Member #4157 Joined: Sun Mar 17 2013, 10:04pmPosts: 20 | Day 4 Didn't do a lot today ,here is an update...     | ||
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| Jean-Michel T |
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| Registered Member #4157 Joined: Sun Mar 17 2013, 10:04pmPosts: 20 | Day 7 I used a carbon paper to transfer the outline of the frame on a 3/16 thick basswood.   Now I dont really understand out how to draw the beveled side of frame M (page 19 of The US Brig Eagle 1814 Practicum). If the beveled side (dashed line) is obtain by Repeating step 1 through 7 how come it's different then the continous line draw from the same step 1 through 7.  Need to go shopping for some tools much needed to cut the frames. I'm thinking about a Dremel moto saw, a file set and more basswood !! | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Jean, The frames at the center of the vessel will be nice an flat, containing no bevel. However, notice that when you go toward the bow, there is an increasing angle on each frame the closer it gets to the bow. The same is true as you go from the center toward the stern. The frames tend to curve more and more the closer you get to the transom. The dashed line represents the shape of the frame at that point, which means it is slightly curved inward (beveled) compared to the full line. The purpose of the bevel is to allow a precise resting place for each plank. In fact, a good way to test the accuracy of your bevels after you've sanded them is to take a long length of this basswood, and bend it up against each of the frames lengthwise. The long length, when placed up against each of the frames, should rest smoothly and snugly against each of your beveled frames. If this doesn't make sense, I'll explain further. Just let me know. Gene | ||
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